For generations, giant waves have become a true object of fascination for surfers, scientists, and curious onlookers. And it’s no wonder: their size, power, and the skill required to conquer them make them a true extreme challenge and a dream for many.
But not all waves are the same. What makes a wave giant? And how do they originate? Below, we will explain how giant waves are formed and how they are classified within the surfing community, as well as the Top 10 Biggest Waves in the World and the Top 10 Biggest Waves Ever Surfed. Would you dare to face them?
Giant waves that form in certain parts of the world are the result of a combination of meteorological, geographical, and oceanographic factors.
The main driver of giant waves is the wind. The energy transmitted from the wind to the water’s surface causes shock waves to travel through the ocean. The stronger the wind, the bigger the wave. Strong and consistent winds blowing over large expanses of water create waves of significant size, and when these winds occur within storms, the energy accumulates, creating even bigger waves.
The strong winds of tropical storms and hurricanes result in massive waves capable of traveling long distances across the ocean. In fact, in areas like Nazaré (Portugal), storms are one of the main contributors to the giant waves seen on the beach during the winter months.
In places where the seafloor is steep or has a sharp drop, waves can grow rapidly as they approach the shore. This is exactly what happens in places like Nazaré. The famous underwater canyon in the village amplifies the waves as they approach the beach, due to its depth.
Places like Jaws in Hawaii or Mavericks in California have a unique geography that favors the creation of giant waves. Submarine canyons, the collision of ocean currents, and the presence of deep-water islands are just some of the factors contributing to the creation of these oceanic giants.
Here are the largest and most impressive waves ever recorded around the world:
The waves of Nazaré have been the site of some of the most impressive records in surfing history, making it deserving of the top spot on our list. In fact, many surfers choose Nazaré’s waves to break their records. This was the case with Sebastian Steudtner, who, on October 29, 2020, surfed a 26.21-meter wave, setting a new world record.
The ideal season to see the famous giant waves is from November to March, when the weather conditions favor the formation of huge waves. If you’re a surf enthusiast or a curious observer, don’t hesitate to stay at the Ohai Nazaré Resort, just minutes from the beach, and witness this natural spectacle.
Located on the island of Maui in Hawaii, the wave at Jaws or Pe’ahi is one of the most fascinating in the surfing world. It can reach up to 20 meters high during winter. Jaws is famous for its speed and the power with which it breaks, making it a real challenge even for the most experienced surfers.
Teahupo’o in Tahiti is truly one of the most challenging and impressive waves in the world. In the past, surfing in Teahupo’o was seen as impossible, primarily due to the wave’s complexity and the risks it posed. The sharp coral bottom, combined with the wave’s power, made very few dare to face it. However, over time, with experience and new techniques, Teahupo’o became recognized not only as an impenetrable wave but as one of the most sought-after challenges.
Mavericks is known for its waves that exceed 15 meters in height, created by the rocky seafloor and the powerful reef found in Half Moon Bay, California. While not as impressive as those of Nazaré or Jaws, its difficulty makes it one of the most legendary spots for big-wave surfing.
Shipstern’s Bluff, in Tasmania, is known for its unpredictable and challenging nature. The wave forms a “step” in the middle, creating a ledge that can catch surfers off guard. Severe conditions, such as the rocky bottom and cold water, make surfing even more dangerous.
Located on the western coast of Australia, The Right is an extremely heavy wave, exclusive to tow-in surfing. With an internal section that breaks rapidly in front of the previous one, escaping it becomes nearly impossible without being dragged into the Indian Ocean. Additionally, it’s the spot with the highest shark presence on this list.
Waimea Bay, on the North Shore of Oahu, is one of the most iconic surf spots, known for its large and powerful waves, very different from those of Pipeline, which is just a few kilometers away.
Cortes Bank, one of the largest waves in the world, is located 160 km off the coast of California. Despite the distance, surfers say the trip is worth it. The secret of the wave lies underwater, where Pacific currents meet a submerged mountain range, creating some of the biggest waves in the world.
Pipeline, on the North Shore of Oahu, is one of the most iconic and dangerous waves in the world, famous for its hollow barrels considered some of the best on the planet. While it may not be the biggest wave in the world, its magic lies in the perfection of the barrels that break over a shallow reef just a few meters from the shore, creating an impressive spectacle, ideal for those who want to observe up close or capture images of the world’s best surfers.
Playa Zicatela, in Puerto Escondido, is known for its tubular waves. Known as the “Mexican Pipeline,” it attracts surfers from all over in search of giant barrels. On those days, it’s common to see, besides the giant waves, broken surfboards.
As surfers continue to push the limits and seek even bigger waves, the list of records for giant waves continues to grow. Praia do Norte in Nazaré, Portugal, is one of the most iconic locations in the world for big-wave surfing, offering waves up to 30 meters high, where surfers reach speeds of up to 80 km/h. With such a scenario, it’s no surprise that many of the biggest giant wave records are set here, especially after Garrett McNamara brought Nazaré to the world’s attention in 2011 by surfing a 23-meter wave.
Among the great names in big-wave surfing is Sebastian Steudtner, who set the world record with a 26.2-meter wave in 2020, surpassing Brazilian Rodrigo Koxa, who had surfed a 24.4-meter wave in 2017, also in Nazaré. Other notable records include Garrett McNamara, who surfed a 23.8-meter wave in 2011 in Nazaré, and Mike Parsons, who surfed a 23.5-meter wave at Cortes Bank, California, in 2008.
Justine Dupont also made history in 2023 by surfing a 22.8-meter wave at Cortes Bank, one of the most challenging locations in the world.
These surfers have distinguished themselves through their incredible feats in vast seas, defying the limits of nature and achieving extraordinary accomplishments that will remain in the sport’s history.
The current world record: a wave of 26.21 meters.
Before Steudtner’s record, Koxa surfed a 24.4-meter wave.
The surfing legend faced a 23.77-meter wave.
Parsons surfed a wave estimated at 23.5 meters.
Dupont surfed a wave of 22.9 meters.
The Brazilian surfer rode a 22.3-meter wave, setting a record on the same beach where she had an accident in 2013.
Porcella’s 22.3-meter wave at Nazaré in 2016 reflected stories of overcoming, after accidents and serious injuries in Teahupo’o and Jaws.
Though not the largest wave, it is the only one that includes a successfully surfed tube, adding a level of technical difficulty to the challenge beyond simply riding a 21.6-meter wave.
The German surfer moved to Portugal to surf Nazaré’s giant waves, achieving both first and eighth places on this list with a 21.6-meter wave.
February 11, 2020, was a milestone for women in big-wave surfing, as Justine Dupont faced a 70-foot (21.5 meters) wave at Nazaré, the same day that Maya Gabeira tackled a 73-foot (22.3 meters) wave.
So, while giant waves continue to be a mystery, their power continues to challenge those brave enough to face them. If you are a big-wave surf lover, don’t miss the opportunity to see these natural wonders or even enjoy the experience of surfing them.